Daffodils & FAQ
1. How do I care for Daffodils?
Give your Tete-a-Tete Daffodils 1 inch of water weekly if it hasn’t rained. Begin watering when the leaves appear above ground in the spring. Continue the weekly watering until 3 weeks after they finish flowering. Stop watering at this point. Never overwater because the bulbs will rot in the ground.
Fertilize when the Daffodils begin to bloom with a fertilizer low in nitrogen, such as 8-24-24, 2-6-12 or 1-2-2. Follow the label instructions for mixing and applying the fertilizer. Mix bonemeal with the fertilizer at 2 cups per 100 square feet of garden space for the final fertilization in the fall just after they finish blooming. Rake the fertilizer and bonemeal into the soil and water well.
Pick the dead blooms off the plants, or deadhead, regularly during blooming to keep them from setting seed.
Cut the foliage to 1 inch above ground 6 to 8 weeks after the end of blooming to prepare the Tete-a-Tete Daffodils for winter.
Mulch with 2 inches of straw or dried leaves for the winter. Remove an inch of the mulch in early spring. Alternatively, dig up the bulbs, rinse off the dirt, cut off the leaves and place them in a mesh bag or old nylon stocking and hang them in a cool, well-ventilated area until fall.
Replant the Tete-a-Tete Daffodil bulbs in late fall 6 inches deep and 6 inches apart in well-drained soil in full to part sun.
Divide Tete-a-Tete Daffodils every 5 to 10 years to eliminate overcrowding. At 6 to 8 weeks after blooming stops, loosen the soil around the plant with a trowel, being careful not to slice into the bulbs. Grasp the plant at the base of the leaves and gently pull the bulbs out of the ground. If they don’t come out easily, use the trowel to loosen the dirt. Once the bulbs are out, carefully pull the bulb mass apart and set half of it back into the original spot. Cover with soil and pat firmly. Replant the other half of the bulb mass immediately or hang them to dry for the summer.
1. How do I store my bulbs until next season?
After flowering, clip the dead flower off the stem, and let the foliage die off while maintaining water level. When the foliage has completely dried out, you may see new little bulbs beginning to form; leave these. Cut the foliage, and store the bulbs dry and as cool as possible. Place them in a paper bag away from ripening fruits (the fruits produce ethylene gas, which destroys the flower bud within the bulb). Then plant them in your garden at the appropriate time of year (see 2 below), using a good mix of soil and compost. Thoroughly water them when planting.
2. When and where should I plant after flowering?
This depends on your climate zone. Here is a Zone Map for reference.
- Zones 4 & 5 – September or early October
- Zones 6 & 7 – October to early November
- Zones 8 & 9 – November to early December
- Zone 10 – Late December to early January
Refrigerate daffodil bulbs for six to eight weeks before planting in zones 8 through 10.
Daffodils grow best in full sun in well-prepared soil with fast drainage. Avoid planting where water collects, or in locations that are prone to late frosts.
General Information about our Bulbs
1. Why do Long Life Flowers® last longer than potted flowers?
At Bloomaker, we select the best varieties and use state of the art growing equipment to provide you flowers that last longer than tulips in soil, or even cut tulips.
2. Where can we buy the Long Life Flowers®?
Check your local grocery store or club store. Please see our Find Us tab for products available in your area.
3. May I buy the Long Life Flowers® directly from you? Do you sell them online?
It's not possible to buy directly from us. Our company is wholesale only.